LS2 Port Works
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Installation
Installation instructions for LS2 Intake removal and replacement on GTO's and Corvettes
(Very Special thanks to TreadHead on www.LS2GTO.com and to Joe_G on www.Corvetteforum.com for particularly good insight and tips!)
This write-up is provided as a general guide for installation and removal of the LS2 intake manifold. LS2 Port Works and LS2PortWorks.com takes no responsibility for damage resulting to personal property or individuals utilizing these instructions.
This is provided as a general guide to help people perform the intake manifold exchange for themselves.
This is SPECIFIC to the 05’ LS2 GTO with additional notes applicable to the LS2 powered Corvette.
Swapping the intake is really not that difficult, and does not require more than a couple of hours from start to completion.
Toolsyou’ll need are minimal: Good lighting, Pliers (my preference is a channel lock style), Medium falt tip screwdriver,
Torque wrench (my personal preference is not to use it on this mod), Ratchet with 8mm and 10mm sockets with a short extension, a 10mm box end wrench, and a rag or paper towels.
1. Before you move on it is a good idea to disconnect the negative terminal of your battery. Since you’re removing the fuel rail, you don’t want any chance of a spark causing a fire. [Corvette battery shown]
2. Start by pulling off the Fuel Rail Covers. They are clipped to the fuel rail along the top edge, and connected by 2 rubber bushings along the bottom edge. Pull up gently but firmly and they will give way and release. Set the covers aside. The Corvette Fuel Rail Covers remove the same way.
3. Next, Take your flat tip screw driver and loosen the hose clamps that hold the CAI or stock intake tube in place. Be sure to disconnect the vacuum line that connects to the intake tube, too. Remove the intake tube completely and set it aside. The Corvette system is very similar and removes almost the same way... it is simply a shorter tube and doesn't curve.
GTO
Corvette [tube and MAF removed]
4. The throttlebody is the Fly-By-Wire type. Disconnect the electrical connector by pulling the little grey tab away from the connection. This will unlock the connector, and you can then pull it off. Go easy and you'll see how it works pretty clearly. This is the same for the Corvette as well. I have noted that some newer corvettes do not have this grey "safety" clip. If it isn't there... don't worry!
5. Grab the ratchet and the 10mm socket with the extension. The throttlebody is held on with 4 bolts that are on the perimeter- two on top and on the bottom as you see it from the front. Loosen the four bolts that hold it on. Recommend you pull the bottom ones out completely and then hold the throttle body as the top tow are removed so you do not drop it and damage it. Set the throttle body and bolts aside. Both Corvette and GTO are the same on this one. Don't worry if your TB isn't as shiny as the one in the pic... that one is ported and externally polished.
Once the TB is removed.... you'll see this-
[GTO pictured]
6. Next, you’ve got 4 tubes/hoses/sensors to disconnect on the front of the intake. From left to right;
First, disconnect the MAP sensor on the left front of the intake. Unplug the electrical connector and tuck it aside. The MAP sensor is locked in place by a small tab. You will pull up on the sensor while gently pushing the tab back just enough to let the sensor come free. It really doesn't take much so be gentle. I like to clean the oil off and reinstall on the new intake manifold so it is ready for later. This step is the same on the Corvette and GTO.
Second, Disconnect the tube in the picture below. Instructions on operating the grey locking clip are below!
How the grey locking tabs work: One side of the grey clip will be able to be pushed in and it will slide to the side a little- this releases a locking retainer that engages on the manifold nipples. When it is depressed and "wiggled" as it is pulled it will release from the intake manifold. You can see it here...
Third, pull the hose off the left side of where the throttle body fits. This hose connects the Valley Cover (PCV connection) to the intake manifold. If you have added an inline catch can you will disconnect that from the intake manifold instead. Both Vette and GTO are the same.
Fourth, on the right side, remove the plastic tube by pushing the grey plastic lock and unhooking the tube.
7. Next move to the back of the intake. Grab your light, you’ll need it. Here the instructions split...
GTO- There are three connections to the rear of the intake, one electrical connector (oil pressure sender) and two hoses (big brake booster and a small vacuum hose). On the GTO you have easy access to these.
Corvette- There are only two connections to the rear of the intake, one electrical connector (oil pressure sender) and the big brake booster hose. On the Vette, these are obscured under the cowl but can be seen with a flashlight or drop lamp. I have pretty big hands and am able to reach them all okay. Note** The smaller hose shown in the pic below does not exist on the Corvette!
Both cars will need the oil sender unplugged first. This will allow easier access to the larger of the two hoses. The connector simply unplugs, the smaller of the two hoses will pull right off. The bigger hose has a clamp on it. I recommend that the big hose be unplugged from the brake booster and removed still attached to the intake manifold. Some prefer removing the clamp from the intake manifold end after you slide the intake forward. Either method works.
8. Atthis point you should disconnect the injector wiring harness from the fuel rails (the 4 plastic plugs that hold the wiring harness to the fuel rail will be pried up with a screwdriver). You also need to disconnect the fuel injectors electrical connectors while you are here. I've noted a difference between the GTO's and Corvettes here. The GTO has a grey safety clip that prevents the injector electrical plug from coming unfastened. It is easy to remove as it simply pulls straight off the top. Fully remove all 8 and set aside for reinstall when you reassemble.
The 2006-2007 Corvette does not have this clip and is shown below. Both clips (once the GTO safety is removed) are actuated with a simple little lever action allowing them to be disconnected.
Corvette
9. Get your 8mm socket out and loosen the four bolts that hold the fuel rails to the intake. There is also one 10mm bolt on the right side that grounds the fuel rail. Take note of the ground strap location (shown in picture) because you will need to put it back in the right place.
Its a good idea to store your bolts (and later brackets) in the corresponding holes on the new intake. It's just easier to remember it all this way.
10. Then, get your 10mm socket and loosen the other 9 bolts that hold the intake to the engine. At the back of the intake, there are two bolts per side that hold a bracket that protects the fuel rails. Both the GTO and Corvette must remove them. Boths sides shown below in a tricky looking pic.
GTO: You have easy access to these 4 bolts that hold the brackets. When you remove the 4 bolts you can pull the brackets off and set them on the new intake.
Corvette: You do not have easy access to these bolts and brackets. You will have to remove all 4 rear bolts and then hold them up while you lift up slighty on the intake manifold and slide the whole thing forward a few inches until you can pull the bolts out completely. You are holding them up so as not to drag them on the sealing face of the cylinder head.
GTO
11. With all the bolts out you will be able to remove the fuel rail from the intake manifold.Once the brackets are off, grab the fuel rail and evenly apply upward pressure to unseat the injectors from the intake. A small amount of fuel leakage might occur as the line depressurizes- have a rag handy to catch it. Don't worry, its not much and it will be dry and safe before you get the new manifold installed.
GTO: You can lay a towel on the drivers side fender to lay the fuel rail on. You'll carefully lay it upside down. The fuel fitting will not be disconnected for this. See pic below.
Corvette: You will lay a towel on the windshield and cowl area. You will rotate the fuel rail up and over to lay upside down on the towel. The fuel rail will not be disconnected. Sorry, but I don't have a pic for the Vette yet, but you should be able to visualize from the GTO pic below.
12. Remove the intake manifold from the engine. You'll want to clean out any dirt and debris that may have accumulated under the intake manifold. I use a rag or paper towels (dampened with brake cleaner) to wipe up the nasty oil residue you'll find around the intake ports on the cylinder heads. I also like to take a shop vac and suck up all around the area... I just like to keep it as clean as possible. Sorry... once again I forgot to snap the pic for this step!
GTO
13. At this point, you should have the old and new intake both on the bench. Carefully pick the green o-ring gaskets out of the "old" intake and get ready to swap all of them to the new intake. Make sure you get all 8 runners and the big o-ring on the TB inlet. You will want to wipe them down before reinstall... not because you have to... but you'll see all that nasty oil and not want it to touch the new intake! You do not need new o-rings. Yours will be fine.
If you put the bolts in the ported intake to keep track of the them... swap them all over ot the old one for a few minutes while you begin the installation of the new intake. Also... swap the brake booster hose over to the new intake as well. Thats what the pliers are for. I also like to install the Throttle Body while the intake is on the bench. It makes it a little more tricky to install the intake and TB as one unit... but its easier for me in the end. You can install now or later... your choice.
14. Take the ported intake and slide it back into place. If you have a...
GTO: drop it back in place all the way.
Corvette: don't forget to keep it forward slighty while you reinstall the fuel rail and then put the rear brackets and bolts in. Be sure to hold the bolts up enough that they don't hang out of the bottom of the intake and drag on the cylinder head ports as you reposition it back under the cowl. You'll feel the intake drop down when it's aligned properly. This step is best accomplished with two people- one on each side of the car! One person can do it... but nothing builds strong bonds between people like lending a hand.
15. Both cars: Make sure that the tube that runs under the fuel rail on the right side is not pinched. Also watch out for the electrical connector at the rear of the intake, as it can easily get caught underneath the intake when you put it back in. Once the intake is seated properly, you can start reconnecting things. I began at the rear of the intake with the one electrical connector and the brake booster (both cars). Don't forget the little vacuum hose for the GTO.
Then I reseated the injectors in their respective places, and began replacing the bolts that hold the intake to the engine. Just hand tighten them for now. Don’t forget to replace the ground plate and bolts on the right side the way they came off.
16. Now that all of the bolts are hand tight, you have to make a decision. Either set your torque wrench at 7 pounds and, starting at the middle, tighten the bolts according the drawing. Personally, I snug all bolts down and then do another half a turn. Much like adjusting rocker arms. Zero lash and a half a turn work fine for this. I usually have to check them all twice to see if they are even. Once the intake was securely fastened and the injectors were seated well enough (don't worry... there is no torque for these just snug down is perfect).
17. Reinstall all the front components and reconnect the hoses and sensor. The TB just needs to be tightened to snug- much like the fuel rails. When you’re ready, reconnect the plug to the throttle body itself. Now that everything is reconnected, go back and check it again! The only thing left to do is reconnect the negative battery terminal.
18. You should be done! Be sure to check for any fuel leaks...there should be none but better safe than sorry. Now take it for a check ride and verify no "check engine light" and no codes thrown. Should be none if you reconnected everything!
(Very Special thanks to TreadHead on www.LS2GTO.com and to Joe_G on www.Corvetteforum.com for particularly good insight and tips!)
This write-up is provided as a general guide for installation and removal of the LS2 intake manifold. LS2 Port Works and LS2PortWorks.com takes no responsibility for damage resulting to personal property or individuals utilizing these instructions.
This is provided as a general guide to help people perform the intake manifold exchange for themselves.
This is SPECIFIC to the 05’ LS2 GTO with additional notes applicable to the LS2 powered Corvette.
Swapping the intake is really not that difficult, and does not require more than a couple of hours from start to completion.
Toolsyou’ll need are minimal: Good lighting, Pliers (my preference is a channel lock style), Medium falt tip screwdriver,
Torque wrench (my personal preference is not to use it on this mod), Ratchet with 8mm and 10mm sockets with a short extension, a 10mm box end wrench, and a rag or paper towels.
1. Before you move on it is a good idea to disconnect the negative terminal of your battery. Since you’re removing the fuel rail, you don’t want any chance of a spark causing a fire. [Corvette battery shown]
2. Start by pulling off the Fuel Rail Covers. They are clipped to the fuel rail along the top edge, and connected by 2 rubber bushings along the bottom edge. Pull up gently but firmly and they will give way and release. Set the covers aside. The Corvette Fuel Rail Covers remove the same way.
3. Next, Take your flat tip screw driver and loosen the hose clamps that hold the CAI or stock intake tube in place. Be sure to disconnect the vacuum line that connects to the intake tube, too. Remove the intake tube completely and set it aside. The Corvette system is very similar and removes almost the same way... it is simply a shorter tube and doesn't curve.
GTO
Corvette [tube and MAF removed]
4. The throttlebody is the Fly-By-Wire type. Disconnect the electrical connector by pulling the little grey tab away from the connection. This will unlock the connector, and you can then pull it off. Go easy and you'll see how it works pretty clearly. This is the same for the Corvette as well. I have noted that some newer corvettes do not have this grey "safety" clip. If it isn't there... don't worry!
5. Grab the ratchet and the 10mm socket with the extension. The throttlebody is held on with 4 bolts that are on the perimeter- two on top and on the bottom as you see it from the front. Loosen the four bolts that hold it on. Recommend you pull the bottom ones out completely and then hold the throttle body as the top tow are removed so you do not drop it and damage it. Set the throttle body and bolts aside. Both Corvette and GTO are the same on this one. Don't worry if your TB isn't as shiny as the one in the pic... that one is ported and externally polished.
Once the TB is removed.... you'll see this-
[GTO pictured]
6. Next, you’ve got 4 tubes/hoses/sensors to disconnect on the front of the intake. From left to right;
First, disconnect the MAP sensor on the left front of the intake. Unplug the electrical connector and tuck it aside. The MAP sensor is locked in place by a small tab. You will pull up on the sensor while gently pushing the tab back just enough to let the sensor come free. It really doesn't take much so be gentle. I like to clean the oil off and reinstall on the new intake manifold so it is ready for later. This step is the same on the Corvette and GTO.
Second, Disconnect the tube in the picture below. Instructions on operating the grey locking clip are below!
How the grey locking tabs work: One side of the grey clip will be able to be pushed in and it will slide to the side a little- this releases a locking retainer that engages on the manifold nipples. When it is depressed and "wiggled" as it is pulled it will release from the intake manifold. You can see it here...
Third, pull the hose off the left side of where the throttle body fits. This hose connects the Valley Cover (PCV connection) to the intake manifold. If you have added an inline catch can you will disconnect that from the intake manifold instead. Both Vette and GTO are the same.
Fourth, on the right side, remove the plastic tube by pushing the grey plastic lock and unhooking the tube.
7. Next move to the back of the intake. Grab your light, you’ll need it. Here the instructions split...
GTO- There are three connections to the rear of the intake, one electrical connector (oil pressure sender) and two hoses (big brake booster and a small vacuum hose). On the GTO you have easy access to these.
Corvette- There are only two connections to the rear of the intake, one electrical connector (oil pressure sender) and the big brake booster hose. On the Vette, these are obscured under the cowl but can be seen with a flashlight or drop lamp. I have pretty big hands and am able to reach them all okay. Note** The smaller hose shown in the pic below does not exist on the Corvette!
Both cars will need the oil sender unplugged first. This will allow easier access to the larger of the two hoses. The connector simply unplugs, the smaller of the two hoses will pull right off. The bigger hose has a clamp on it. I recommend that the big hose be unplugged from the brake booster and removed still attached to the intake manifold. Some prefer removing the clamp from the intake manifold end after you slide the intake forward. Either method works.
8. Atthis point you should disconnect the injector wiring harness from the fuel rails (the 4 plastic plugs that hold the wiring harness to the fuel rail will be pried up with a screwdriver). You also need to disconnect the fuel injectors electrical connectors while you are here. I've noted a difference between the GTO's and Corvettes here. The GTO has a grey safety clip that prevents the injector electrical plug from coming unfastened. It is easy to remove as it simply pulls straight off the top. Fully remove all 8 and set aside for reinstall when you reassemble.
The 2006-2007 Corvette does not have this clip and is shown below. Both clips (once the GTO safety is removed) are actuated with a simple little lever action allowing them to be disconnected.
Corvette
9. Get your 8mm socket out and loosen the four bolts that hold the fuel rails to the intake. There is also one 10mm bolt on the right side that grounds the fuel rail. Take note of the ground strap location (shown in picture) because you will need to put it back in the right place.
Its a good idea to store your bolts (and later brackets) in the corresponding holes on the new intake. It's just easier to remember it all this way.
10. Then, get your 10mm socket and loosen the other 9 bolts that hold the intake to the engine. At the back of the intake, there are two bolts per side that hold a bracket that protects the fuel rails. Both the GTO and Corvette must remove them. Boths sides shown below in a tricky looking pic.
GTO: You have easy access to these 4 bolts that hold the brackets. When you remove the 4 bolts you can pull the brackets off and set them on the new intake.
Corvette: You do not have easy access to these bolts and brackets. You will have to remove all 4 rear bolts and then hold them up while you lift up slighty on the intake manifold and slide the whole thing forward a few inches until you can pull the bolts out completely. You are holding them up so as not to drag them on the sealing face of the cylinder head.
GTO
11. With all the bolts out you will be able to remove the fuel rail from the intake manifold.Once the brackets are off, grab the fuel rail and evenly apply upward pressure to unseat the injectors from the intake. A small amount of fuel leakage might occur as the line depressurizes- have a rag handy to catch it. Don't worry, its not much and it will be dry and safe before you get the new manifold installed.
GTO: You can lay a towel on the drivers side fender to lay the fuel rail on. You'll carefully lay it upside down. The fuel fitting will not be disconnected for this. See pic below.
Corvette: You will lay a towel on the windshield and cowl area. You will rotate the fuel rail up and over to lay upside down on the towel. The fuel rail will not be disconnected. Sorry, but I don't have a pic for the Vette yet, but you should be able to visualize from the GTO pic below.
12. Remove the intake manifold from the engine. You'll want to clean out any dirt and debris that may have accumulated under the intake manifold. I use a rag or paper towels (dampened with brake cleaner) to wipe up the nasty oil residue you'll find around the intake ports on the cylinder heads. I also like to take a shop vac and suck up all around the area... I just like to keep it as clean as possible. Sorry... once again I forgot to snap the pic for this step!
GTO
13. At this point, you should have the old and new intake both on the bench. Carefully pick the green o-ring gaskets out of the "old" intake and get ready to swap all of them to the new intake. Make sure you get all 8 runners and the big o-ring on the TB inlet. You will want to wipe them down before reinstall... not because you have to... but you'll see all that nasty oil and not want it to touch the new intake! You do not need new o-rings. Yours will be fine.
If you put the bolts in the ported intake to keep track of the them... swap them all over ot the old one for a few minutes while you begin the installation of the new intake. Also... swap the brake booster hose over to the new intake as well. Thats what the pliers are for. I also like to install the Throttle Body while the intake is on the bench. It makes it a little more tricky to install the intake and TB as one unit... but its easier for me in the end. You can install now or later... your choice.
14. Take the ported intake and slide it back into place. If you have a...
GTO: drop it back in place all the way.
Corvette: don't forget to keep it forward slighty while you reinstall the fuel rail and then put the rear brackets and bolts in. Be sure to hold the bolts up enough that they don't hang out of the bottom of the intake and drag on the cylinder head ports as you reposition it back under the cowl. You'll feel the intake drop down when it's aligned properly. This step is best accomplished with two people- one on each side of the car! One person can do it... but nothing builds strong bonds between people like lending a hand.
15. Both cars: Make sure that the tube that runs under the fuel rail on the right side is not pinched. Also watch out for the electrical connector at the rear of the intake, as it can easily get caught underneath the intake when you put it back in. Once the intake is seated properly, you can start reconnecting things. I began at the rear of the intake with the one electrical connector and the brake booster (both cars). Don't forget the little vacuum hose for the GTO.
Then I reseated the injectors in their respective places, and began replacing the bolts that hold the intake to the engine. Just hand tighten them for now. Don’t forget to replace the ground plate and bolts on the right side the way they came off.
16. Now that all of the bolts are hand tight, you have to make a decision. Either set your torque wrench at 7 pounds and, starting at the middle, tighten the bolts according the drawing. Personally, I snug all bolts down and then do another half a turn. Much like adjusting rocker arms. Zero lash and a half a turn work fine for this. I usually have to check them all twice to see if they are even. Once the intake was securely fastened and the injectors were seated well enough (don't worry... there is no torque for these just snug down is perfect).
17. Reinstall all the front components and reconnect the hoses and sensor. The TB just needs to be tightened to snug- much like the fuel rails. When you’re ready, reconnect the plug to the throttle body itself. Now that everything is reconnected, go back and check it again! The only thing left to do is reconnect the negative battery terminal.
18. You should be done! Be sure to check for any fuel leaks...there should be none but better safe than sorry. Now take it for a check ride and verify no "check engine light" and no codes thrown. Should be none if you reconnected everything!
